Muhammad Ali Sadpara winter Expedition 2021

The Legacy of Muhammad Ali Sadpara – Pakistani Mountaineer

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Muhammad Ali Sadpara

His 16 years of mountaineering career. List of mountains climbed:

  1. Gasherbrum II (Pakistan) in 2006,
  2. Spantik Peak (Pakistan) in 2006,
  3. Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) in 2008,
  4. Muztagh Ata (China) in 2008,
  5. Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) in 2009,
  6. Gasherbrum I (Pakistan) in 2010,
  7. Nanga Parbat First Winter Ascent (Pakistan) in 2016,
  8. Broad Peak (Pakistan) in 2017,
  9. Nanga Parbat First Autumn Ascent (Pakistan) in 2017,
  10. Pumori Peak First Winter Ascent (Nepal) in 2017,
  11. K2 (Pakistan) in 2018,
  12. Lhotse (Nepal) in 2019,
  13. Makalu (Nepal) in 2019,
  14. Manaslu (Nepal) in 2019,

Muhamad Ali Sadpara (2 Feb, 1976) (missing since February 6th 2021) is a Pakistani mountaineer. He was part of the team that successfully achieved the first ever winter summit on Nanga Parbat in 2016. Both his teammates, Alex Txikon and Simone Moro, have gone on record stating that they could not have done it without Sadpara’s brilliance. He had successfully climbed four eight-thousanders in a calendar year and a total of eight in his career.

International community reactions:

His winter experience on 8000m peaks is unparalleled. I sat and listed to him tell incredible stories of combatting -60c temperatures in winter while attempting and succeeding on 8000’ers over the years.
The repeated stories of getting frostbite due to the extremely harsh climate were especially impressive considering he still has 10 fingers and 10 toes. He recounted how one year after an especially difficult winter expedition he returned home with frostbite on his fingers and used a sheep stomach in combination with appropriately warmed water to heal his extremities.
Ali’s life is the mountains and I hope that his profile is raised even higher, beyond the realm of the great mountaineers who are all familiar with his reputation as one of the greats mountaineers of our time.

Ali Sadpara in my eyes is amongst the greatest mountaineers of our time.
Ali’s reputation speaks for itself. His experience is vast on 8000m, both in summer and winter. His accomplishments are legendary including a first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat.
It was not surprising to me, given what I know about men who are born high in the mountains, that his humility and golden heart outshine even his most extraordinary accomplishments.
He’s also a hell of a dancer. 🕺

Ali is closest to my heart, who has always been a big brother to me. We have shared some mountains stories together. He always treated me as his younger brother and sometimes shared his words of wisdom and experiences. I cherish all the memories that we shared. It’s hard hitting but I know how skilled, capable and strong of a climber you are my brother !

Nirmal Purja (Successfuly ascended K2 winter expedition 2021)

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